Soundman2020 - Studio Design Forum

i've used that type of flex conduit in several jobs, and as long as the conduit isn't stretched tight, i find that it works ok. if you needed a larger conduit for multiple plenum type cables between rooms - then the rigid conduit + rubber decoupled would be the choice. keeping all electrical wiring ...

niely done! plus a nice view!

i know there are plenty of folks who use construction adhesive to attach drywall and panel layers in homes. however, unless you're using paperless gwb, then you're simply bonding paper to paper and there is a risk. whilst i'm sure it comes too late - you could have "sistered" the studs to ...

i would use screws. the problem with adhesives on drywall is it's gluing the paper together, not bonding the gypsum. why did you go with 63cm instead of 61cm or 60cm? also, if the first layer is vertical, rough finish on tape and mud, then horizontal on the second layer. or vice versa.

whoo-hoo! no more living like you're rockin' in the stone age! nice that you use chalk lines to layout the drywall screws.

i don't suppose you have an accurate sketchup model of your room? :-) or detail measurements of it all on paper etc you could share with me. i have some basic treatments which may be something that can assist as well as the Boggy style diffuser units as dynamic components as we could experiment on w...

most "pre-calibrated" systems use -24db, -18db, -12db (that magic 6db doubling #) -- so consider your listening approach - your sound level is important to ensuring your not deceived by "louder is better" effects + ear fatigue. so if you "calibrate" your system to -18db...

yeah, the 70hz dip is likely your ceiling. so, some deeper absorption overhead should help some or possible consider some tuned membranes. eq'ing the peaks down is a valid approach to the 50, 100, and 250hz.

so the edge of the baffle and the ceiling join - fairly sharp (from photo) and likely some edge diffraction there. in general, soffit assemblies like to have as flat as possible overall surface between the speakers - so the window inset depth and the corners may be playing there. if you had some pip...

about friggin' time! LOL (actually it was rumoured we'd never hear from you again once you got the soffit operating and the studio was now complete!)

looking good and glad the smaller problems are getting eliminated. any significant change in the audio?

very nice! one recommendation is to have them use wet finishing on the final layer as (in my experience) much less dust and smoother blending. the interim layers of course can be a rough blade (but no "blobs") finish.

yep, but i might directly attach the steel to the wall so it could also provide a connect point for isolation brackets.

the interior wall and frame should have the normal wall (ceiling) insulation which can transcend the "air gap" as the insulation is effectively the "air space" anyways. just avoid excessive compaction on the insulation to avoid coupling the exterior and interior walls. do nto use...

no, put the foam on the block/concrete. it's just part of the exterior boundary. as Jennifer noted: residential construction (with few exceptions) do not get a full 60db transmission loss esp below 125hz. there are many reasons for this including sound levels at those frequencies, framing and window...

using the foam on the block with the 1-58 to create the insulation / vapor barrier seems reasonable. then just treat that as your exterior bounday when consider your next layer of framing. then on the front portion of the basement have your double wall. on the bath room side i'd just extend the wall...