Soundman2020 - Studio Design Forum

TLDR: How to best create additional bass trapping using the space above the existing mezzanine. Five questions, A though E in the text below. Here are some annotated drawings and some videos that should clarify my questions. Mezz V1.mp4 Mezz V2.mp4 Mezz V3.mp4 Mezz V4.mp4 The first 2 images show the...

Been a while since I posted an update. Long story. Unfortunately the engineer that I had hired to help evaluate my structure has lost her licence and is being sued for negligence related to concrete works in a bunch of commercial buildings. I've decided to hire another engineering firm to redo the e...

gullfo wrote:the last drawing will work.

Ok, and would I get more LF absorption if I completely fill location B with pink fluffy FG?

Let me start over and try to clarify my questions with better drawings. This is a top view of my initial plan: Top view.png My first question was if I enlarged the space between the green and blue walls where the white line is in the above drawing, would the larger air gap act as a bass trap? This m...

Ok let me see if I got this right. So you are suggestion moving the inner baffle box to inside the airspace between the blue and green walls like this, yes? Baffles Opt 2-1.png Baffles Opt 1.png Then build a new soffit here where the flexible ducts enter the isolated space here, yes? Baffles Opt 2 N...

gullfo wrote: i would open it for best absorption rather than just dead air space. a closet... with a really big absorber in it...

What is it that I should open? Are you referring to the soffit that would have the additional ducting?

What I mean is this. In that picture the blue member is the top plate of the inner wall, the green member is the top plate of the outer wall. The space in between is the air gap of the MAM. Yes this is where the inner and outer baffles will connect. Everything will be sealed accordingly. As opossed ...

Hi folks. I will be focussing on this project full time again come December. Right now I'm still working out a few details regarding the outer leaf baffle box locations. I'm wondering if I can use some the space above the walk-in closet, where the outter leaf baffle box and ERV are located, to creat...

One thing I forgot to ask about is static pressure. I understand what static pressure is, but I'm not sure how to factor it into my design. I know the ERV I'm looking at has variable DC motors which are supposed to compensate for static pressure increases in order to produce the selected CFM value. ...

Here is the 2nd draft of my baffle boxes and ducts. Baffles built with 3/4" birch plywood and 2" Duct board. I'll be working mostly alone so I'll run my Panasonic Intellibalance FV-10VEC2 ERV at 50CFM (low setting) most times. The ERV has 6" ins and outs so I will use 6" flexible...

6027 another option (and you see this in commercial windows) - the main part of the frame if solid and stiff, then a lighter part of inserted which applies pressure to the seal. see picture. the stiff outer frame is assembled as either 2 or (more commonly) 4 pieces which tensions the lighter part a...

rivets or bolts (being aware of metal interactions between aluminum and steel when in the presence of water). use a thick rubber seal all around the glass in place of set blocks, otherwise there is a risk of air gaps and moisture, insects etc. Seems like VHB structural glazing tape would be my best...

Onto the exterior aluminium window frames, here is my first design proposal. I'm looking at 6063 Aluminum for the frame construction which would be powder coated white. My fabricator and I came up with a three piece design that would sandwich the 5/8th laminated glass pane. The pane would sit in neo...

Here is a first sketch of the Fresh Air supplies and Stale Air return along with the four baffles. From the ERV Id use 6" flex duct up to the outer leaf baffles. I'm now considering using 2" duct board to build the baffles. I would again use 6" flexible duct at the penetrations of the...

I have been deep into researching fresh air needs for my space and this is what I have come up with so far: Room volume ≈ 3600 FT^3. As per Stuart's 6 air changes per hour that equals 21600 FT^3 of air circulation, divided by 60 minutes = 360CFM of circulation. Stuart's rule of thumb is that 20-40% ...