Soundman2020 - Studio Design Forum

context for the fancy approach

or go simpler:

maybe something like this: kerf the plywood and mount on braces, attach to ceiling (hanging down a bit) with some cove lighting on the edges, backfill with cloth cover insulation. paint or stain the plywood. use turnbuckles or chain to hang and be able to adjust.

nicely done! i use similar designs a lot to get more expansion and more symmetry. both on supply and return units.

if it's a single frame (which i disagree with Rod on this, bridging isolation walls reduces the isolation. i watch Eric D. demo bridging an isolation booth @ Galaxy with a single 2x2 and that room went from 80+db isolation to ~40db -- so way more than half of the isolation was gone...), then concept...

congrats on the vertigo severity. yeah, setting up a stack of triangles in a corner will almost always help. if too much HF goes away, add a panel. there is almost no way in a small room to have too much LF or LMF absorption...

do a search for watertight access panels. look for heavy metal units. add a layer of rubber backing for the door just to ensure no resonating

if anything, i might put a poly on the ceiling down the ridge to provide some scattering / diffraction. it's also good for the LF as well. also, scattered absorption on the ceiling (like widely spaced checkerboard 300mm x 300mm x 50mmT) on the angles can provide scattering / diffusive effects.

yes, 7kgs seems like quite a lot. if you take the idea of using access panels to allow you to swap out the packs/cups, the start smaller and see how much moisture you're actually trapping before deciding to scale it up (or down). something like these will read-out the moisture collect (i.e. you'll s...

variable acoustics. c'mon man!

if the window is a problem during mix time, pull the drapes over it

nice looking room! you could add a set of clouds across that peak if you need more overall LF taming. you have lots of stuff on the walls - so you have plenty of diffraction already (as well as harmonic support from the hanging and standing instruments and amps resonating).

depends on how you've built the windows, in my designs, the window air space is open to the rest of the dividing air space - that is the entire A part of MAM is one contiguous space. the window separation gaps are hidden via semi-rigid insulation and cloth or a very thin cut if going for an all wood...

the box should be heavy to ensure it's not resonating - and since the soffit will be filled with insulation of reasonable mass, this shouldn't be an issue. having the back of the back open to interface with the duct board will give you the best circulation. since the interior of duct board is insula...

1. you need to vent the speakers or move the electronics away from the speaker (heat rises) and seal the opening back up and do the wiring as you described. you might also lose any warranty on your new expensive speakers as well as not getting the specs desired since now the new wiring can impact th...