Soundman2020 - Studio Design Forum

the fermacell approach looks like an option if it's in your budget (https://www.fermacell.com/en/flooring) as is the self-leveling compounds. either way you could put a hard layer (e.g. OSB) then your finish flooring. on the isolation question - i'd recommend you use isolation platforms for the drum...

generally you want the soffits below the edge of the console or desk to be absorptive - so routing wiring in the lower section should not be an issue. many times you can create a wiring trough across the front to keep things need and cover it.

maybe smartdraw? https://app.smartdraw.com/editor.aspx?t ... &flags=128

correct - the general ducting can be installed as a permanent part hidden away, but you should have access to the maintenance points - filters, a way to perform duct cleaning every 3-4 years, fans, etc etc.

another option which might turn out faster - a "pillow case" type approach where you can sew it up to be a reasoably close fit (the block as probably +/- 1/16") and simply slip it over the stack and put the iso pad and speaker back on. to make it it simply sew it from the inside out, ...

like any water - you want it moving away from your foundation - so options include a sluiceway (plastic, cement, rocks) to direct it to a downslope, or if there is a rainwater / storm drainage opening, you could direct it there or near there. example: i'm in Florida, so normal air humidity is 70-80%...

in the rear view of the soffit mounting, which will become behind the absorption face, is the plywood/mdf panel which extends the baffle below the edge of the front panel.

yes, that would work.consider building across the front another unit for absorption there leaving a few feet for the AC unit. depending o nthe room modes, that front unit could become a membrane trap. meanwhile it will help with reflections off the front of the desk - which is why your lower parts o...

if you cannot use backer rod and caulk, then a proper rubber flashing tape should be ok as the new layers of drywall should secure the edges even if somehow adhesion is lost. then the usual backer rod and caulk for the drywall. you could add clips and hat channel on the beam and wrap it with plywood...

endorka wrote:Qr BbpostIt's good but a bit disconcerting hearing things on familiar recordings I've never noticed before.

welcome! it's the beginning of the journey to proper acoustics for critical listening many other people have often been surprised by listening to their older recordings in a new environment.

yes because you have better transitions to the walls on LF and LMF which frees up a portion of the speaker response as those LF / LMF comb filtering + harmonics, which are generally low-level enough to not be considered an issue, until you no longer hear them and thus no longer minutely masking thin...

one thing to consider before painting - if the edge towards the windows will poke out like that, i'd give the edge a slight rounding - say 5mm radius - not that there should be any refraction which matters but the LF waves across the surface will enjoy a smoother interface transition off the plate (...

nicely done! now hurry because we want to know how it all sounds

or as a checker board, or arcs if you want more decorative. you could also vary the size of the pads as well as shapes also. the idea is to influence the absorption and reflective space enough to prevent pure slap echoes from occurring whilst still having the reflective portions providing the HF sup...

very nice! and if you're not glueing everything together, if you need to go beyond the iso feet you have the option to re-arrange the isolation and keep the rest of your assembly.