New Home Studio build in Japan
Posted: Tue, 2020-Oct-20, 10:32
I think the saying goes that building a studio will take 2 to 3 times the time and budget you planned for. My build is on target to end up in that range.
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And anchor and screw that you speak of are like the ones in the picture below?
I think the saying goes that building a studio will take 2 to 3 times the time and budget you planned for. My build is on target to end up in that range.
Starlight wrote:Source of the post I think the saying goes that building a studio will take 2 to 3 times the time and budget you planned for. My build is on target to end up in that range.
SoWhat wrote:Source of the post With the added cost of a property survey (damn rules...), I will easily achieve this, without even considering the unexpected extras.
Your dimensions seem pretty good to me. What's more important then trying to weak modes, is to maximize air volume in the room. You already do have plenty of air volume, and our ration looks OK, so I'd go with what you have.kwow wrote:Source of the post ・Checking the Bonello chart using https://amcoustics.com/tools/amroc?l=72 ... 36&r60=0.6 modes per third comes up to be 1, 1, 1, 2, 6, 8, 13, 25. Is this ok, or is this funky in some way? My only understanding is that the numbers should go up, or stay the same as you go from left to right.
Looks fine to me!Please look at the images below to see if the nailers are OK like this.
Are the drywalls staggered correctly for the inner and outer leaf?
And are the backer rods in the right place?
I would suggest using something thicker than 9mm: at least 15mm, and preferably 19mm. You might even be able to leave out one layer of drywall, if you go with 19mm plywood, or OSB which is probably less expensive.And is it OK that the 9mm structural plywood for the outer leaf are butted together in the corner as shown?
You could if you wanted to, but it's not totally necessary.Or should there be a backer rod in between these also?
Not really. The purpose of the backer rod and caulk is to get a series of really good air-tight seals in the corners. It's not to decouple the panels from each other. All of those panels are in the same "leaf", and they are all connected to the same frame, so there's no need to decouple them. But there is a need to get a good hermetic seal, which can be hard to do in corners. Thus, one piece of backer rod plus one bead of caulk on each layer is the way to achieve that. You could do it by building up several beads of caulk, but that would be far more expensive, and personally I prefer having two different materials in there, as the flex differently, so the overall seal should be better if one of them fails.kwow wrote:Source of the post I realized that the backer rod/staggered drywall image that I posted is all wrong. I staggered the drywall like Stuart suggested, but the drywalls are touching each other which completely negates the use of backer rod and caulk.
Right! There's also the issue that dirt usually has a high content of organic "stuff", perhaps including seeds, mold spores, pollen, and other nasty things that you don't want trapped inside your floor, along with possible moisture....kwow wrote:Source of the post As far as dirt instead of sand- I would be concerned with dirt as it may hold moisture which will be encapsulated within your foundation thus creating a situation whereas the moisture content of the dirt changes and causes cracks in your slab. (It will change if it has moisture as the lower slab will suck it out)
Staggering your joists like that is one way to go, but if you really want to maximize your acosutic ceiling height and also get some additional benefits, then consider doing an "inside out" ceiling: What is an "inside-out ceiling"? Do you need one? How do you build it?kwow wrote:Source of the post 1st design is to have the ceiling joists of the inner shell attached “above” the wall framing instead of within it. I saw a guy on youtube do something like this where ceiling space was limited. As you can see in the images below (this one might be a little hard to see/understand) just the ceiling joists are sticking out above, these joists will fit in between the ceiling joists of the outer shell without touching them. Since the ceiling joists of the inner and outer shell would be kind of next to each other, the height of the building can be lower maybe by 40-50cm.
The do the entire studio inside out! Both ceiling AND walls! Even more benefits. With an inside-out design, the stud bays face the room and can be used for treatment, which can then be "invisible", hidden behind fabric. The same studio show in the "inside-out ceiling" thread, also has inside out walls.kwow wrote:Source of the post I’m planning on building the treatment directly on the walls and not hanging a bunch of panels. The reasons are it’s probably easier to build that way, it’ll look nicer, and I’m afraid of things falling down with earthquakes, etc.
If you do inside-out walls, then it's very simple to do all your wiring through the framing, without needing multiple penetrations for switches, outlets, light fixtures, etc. Another option (for conventional walls) is using SURFACE MOUNT ELECTRICAL raceways, such as these:kwow wrote:Source of the post [electrical].... I’m thinking of doing something like this (except it'll be on drywall).
kwow wrote:Source of the post Ventilation: I’m going to have 2 intake and 2 exhaust on the ceiling. I assume I would just work around these with the treatment since they need to be sealed right at the ceiling? They look like the picture below.
That's what this forum is here for!Thank you so much for you replies (a lot of them)!
It's about the same, roughly.Is Plan C just as good/better, or almost as good as Plan A?
Ahh! Then you must b doing it right! Spending a lot more money than you planned is the first sign that you are designing the studio properly... As Starlight said: a studio ALWAYS ends up costing far more than you expected...and I’m already over budget
Soundman2020 wrote:Source of the post Spending a lot more money than you planned is the first sign that you are designing the studio properly...