Thanks both of you
My filters are located in easy access in the workshop area adjacent and I'm confident in my joins (caulk, tape, double hose rings) so I'll drop the trapdoors
I've not posted for a while on progress - just working through ceiling modules and I had to spend a bit of time on the Live Room as the mate I borrowed the nailer from needed it back for big job - a very good friend - I had it here for 2.5 years! I'd left behind two last substantive framing jobs - the infill framing between the joists and the corner framing around the shed frame double post - so I spent some time on those jobs while I had the nailer. Back on the CR ceiling this week
Any thoughts on the question on the wings
Stand alone "room in a room" studio build in Orange NSW Australia
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Stand alone "room in a room" studio build in Orange NSW Australia
generally you want the soffits below the edge of the console or desk to be absorptive - so routing wiring in the lower section should not be an issue. many times you can create a wiring trough across the front to keep things need and cover it.
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Stand alone "room in a room" studio build in Orange NSW Australia
Thanks Glenn
Having posted on this subject I then came across the last few pages of Gareth's blog (the rectification) which is super helpful on this question - and more than a few others regarding control room design Not sure how I missed it as I'd watched this build quite closely
Andrew
Having posted on this subject I then came across the last few pages of Gareth's blog (the rectification) which is super helpful on this question - and more than a few others regarding control room design Not sure how I missed it as I'd watched this build quite closely
Andrew
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Stand alone "room in a room" studio build in Orange NSW Australia
I'm way overdue for an update but the short story is that I've finished the control room isolation work - I have a room with only one door and no internal treatment other than bales of insulation in the corners as crude bass traps. It is set up as a multi purpose room at the moment.
More to come ASAP on the detail...including pics and "raw" room measurement files using Stuart's walking mic method
In the meantime, 2 questions:
1. What is the difference between using neoprene and natural rubber for the job of decoupling? (the specific application is the rubber between the bearers and the inner silencer base)
2. My electrician used flexible conduit for the ethernet and electrical runs. He did the penetrations so they were "non aligned" but I forgot to remind him to leave a gap in the conduit between the walls so that I could join them with rubber to reduce flanking risk. The conduit is pictured here - it is only 0.5mm thick and I have been filling around the penetrations with "Big Stretch" per the second pic. So the QUESTION is "how much risk am I taking by not getting him to create a gap for me to join with rubber?"
Andrew
More to come ASAP on the detail...including pics and "raw" room measurement files using Stuart's walking mic method
In the meantime, 2 questions:
1. What is the difference between using neoprene and natural rubber for the job of decoupling? (the specific application is the rubber between the bearers and the inner silencer base)
2. My electrician used flexible conduit for the ethernet and electrical runs. He did the penetrations so they were "non aligned" but I forgot to remind him to leave a gap in the conduit between the walls so that I could join them with rubber to reduce flanking risk. The conduit is pictured here - it is only 0.5mm thick and I have been filling around the penetrations with "Big Stretch" per the second pic. So the QUESTION is "how much risk am I taking by not getting him to create a gap for me to join with rubber?"
Andrew
Stand alone "room in a room" studio build in Orange NSW Australia
i've used that type of flex conduit in several jobs, and as long as the conduit isn't stretched tight, i find that it works ok. if you needed a larger conduit for multiple plenum type cables between rooms - then the rigid conduit + rubber decoupled would be the choice. keeping all electrical wiring "loose" (meaning leave some loops what crossing separated structural assemblies) so you're not short circuiting the isolation elements.
on the natural vs neoprene rubber - you'd need to check the durometer of the material vs the intended loading. i think neoprene (when you cannot use sorbathane, sylomer, or other product intended for isolation) has a better range of durometer choices and thicknesses in order to get the right material and price for the task.
on the natural vs neoprene rubber - you'd need to check the durometer of the material vs the intended loading. i think neoprene (when you cannot use sorbathane, sylomer, or other product intended for isolation) has a better range of durometer choices and thicknesses in order to get the right material and price for the task.
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